I was on holiday in Mexico for 4 months from July to November, 2019. So lucky to be there before the 2020 shitshow. I spent about two months in total in Mexico City, and the rest of the time in other parts, including Oaxaca, Yucatan, Puebla, Acapulco, Sayulita and various other small towns.
Here are some positives and negatives and random observations
Positives
1. people are polite – when you are trying to cross the road, they often stop and wave you across in front of them. This is rare in most countries.
2. provecho – when you are eating in a restaurant, it is common for a stranger to walk past on their way out or way in and say ‘provecho’, meaning ‘have a nice meal’. I know that in France it is common to say ‘bon apetit’, but I am not sure if they say it to strangers. It is a very polite and friendly thing to do. I found out also that while this is very common in Mexico, it is less common in Chile, and even has some class connotations. I also like that when you are in a collectivo (mini public van), when someone gets on they will greet the other passengers by saying good morning or good afternoon, and most of the other passengers will reply.
3. Corazon – I joked a number of times with other travellers about a so-called rule, that any recorded song that wanted to be played on radio or in public was required to include one word. Corazon! (heart) Other travellers who knew few words of Spanish would laugh, and then sure enough every song we heard would include the word corazón.
4. The buses are good – it’s a pretty good way to travel. Not too pricey, punctual and spacious. Movies (in spanish), toilets, and in some cases they even give you some chips and a drink for your trip.
5. Coastal hand shake – hand slap to fist bump. Super easy, super cool. Make it international.
6. the attitude of street sellers – if you have battled in Asia, the response of people selling things on the street here is mindboggling. They offer you something (in many cases something very weird, like a hammock or a miniature wooden chair), you say no thank you, then they smile, say thank you, and keep walking.
7. the classics – sit in a cafe or bar and you will hear so many rock classics from your youth. Lots of Pearl Jam and other ‘grunge’ era perfection. Don’t know where these playlists come from but they are awesome.
Negatives
1. Ok kill me, but the food – Mexican food is great, but there isn’t too much variety, especially when one goes to smaller cities or towns. Basically variations on tortilla, meat, cheese. Many different names for tortillas, but they are all pretty much the same. The cheese isn’t really high quality, and quantity makes up for quality in many cases. For vegetarians, restaurants can be a total nightmare. Mexico City is ok, and tourist towns are no problem, but cities like Puebla, and Oaxaca city were tough. The menu in many restaurants simply has no vegetables at all. Vegans probably don’t bother.
2. Staff in restaurants and bars – they definitely aren’t rude, but they also are quite slow and inattentive. 10% tip is sort of expected, but in my experience, they don’t really earn it. We commented a few times at how the staff had blinkers on, so to avoid eye contact, and having to come over and serve the customers. Paying the bill can be a painstakingly slow process (about 7-10 minutes) as it requires many people and many steps.
3. 500 pesos. In a mostly cash society, it is reasonable for people to carry 500 peso notes. Its only about 25 USD and that’s what the ATM mainly gives you. Just don’t try to use one to pay!!!! It leads to looks of disbelief and frustration. And in many cases the poor poor cashier will need to run down the street to find change.
My favourite places in Mexico City
I stayed in Mexico city for 8-9 weeks on and off, and took 3 hours of Spanish class each day. I loved the Condesa/Roma neighbourhood and got to know it really well. I know that it is hipster/posh, but my school was there and it really is nice. Here are my favourite places
1. Parque Mexico – what an awesome park. Beautiful big trees, dogs everywhere, and a great ambience, surrounded by bars and cafes. Perfect for a run or a slow walk. Lots of events and activities on the weekends, and some weekdays, and a nice community spirit. Cool outdoor gym too if that’s your thing.
2. Por Siempre Tacos Veganos – wow. Vegan tacos. So good. It’s not an easy city/country for vegetarians and vegans. This place is superb. Always busy, great food and super cheap. Nice vegan cakes too. There are two of these stores – a street store, and a restaurant. Visited many times.
3. Under the Volcano Bookstore – I was lucky enough to have lots of time to read, and although I had my kindle, this place was a major find. One of the best selections of second hand English books you will find. Some examples. Multiple Steinbeck, including his two best. Multiple monster David Foster Wallace tomes. Hardback of a few Tom Wolfe novels. Hardback of Don Winslow first edition. A whole shelf of poetry including translations. A whole section of books on Mexico. Etc
4. Cardamomo Cafe – it’s just a simple cafe, but is nice and small and unpretentious (this area can be quite pretentious) with awesome hotcakes and croissants.
5. Loncheria (on Aguascalientes)- well, they made me a custom vegan sandwich and it was amazing. I had it about 8 times. They also have fantastic homemade galletas. Perfect with an espresso in the afternoon.
6. Mercado Medellin – love this place for fruit and vegetables and nuts and various other things.
7. Lengua and Cultura Language School – What a great little school. Amazing, passionate, knowledgable teachers. My Spanish level is a bit past intermediate, and we got deep into tough grammar, which the teachers handled effortlessly. It’s not an easy thing to do. I asked a few Mexicans about subjuntivo and imperfecto and they looked very confused.
Dark Dirt 